This page was last updated 17 January 2013
Now we get to breathe some life into our flat illustration. This is also where all the research helps. I find that a real intimacy develops between myself and the subject as I study it and become familiar with it's subtleties, nuances of curve and small details. It becomes easier to pick the differences between variants and you can start to spot non-standard modifications and unusual configurations. This really comes to the fore in the Shading and Detailing stages.
The human eye is very, very hard to trick. A viewer may not be able to put their finger precisely on what is wrong with an image, but they will instinctively know that SOMETHING is wrong. That is why photos of scale models are so seldom convincing and how we can pick when something has been "Photoshopped". There are simply too many ways the human brain applies checks and balances. It looks at surface detail, compares it to size of subject, cross references that to reflectivity of surface and gloss levels, thickness of edges, notices intensity and direction of light and fall of shadow and expects to be able to tell if one thing is nearer or farther away than another. All this happens in a split second, and a decision is made about whether the image is convincing or not.
Fortunately, with aircraft profiles, no-one is expecting them to be convincingly realistic. The observer sees a geometrically perfect side view of a machine and instantly knows it is a fabrication. That perfect side view simply doesn't occur in nature. In real life there is always some element of perspective thrown in, so therefore the viewer says to themselves "What I am seeing is not real".
This actually works in our favour. The closer we get to reproducing the details of that aircraft realistically and completely, the more the viewer experiences that transition: "I know it is a fabrication because it is in perfect profile, but it is SO CONVINCING." It is at this point that the illustration becomes breathtaking. Now, is that a goal, or what!? It is certainly my goal!
So we are creating a new layer above the paint layer, we have the clipping mask option activated, I would name the file "Fuselage shading" and make the blending mode either Darken or Multiply. Now we have a layer that, when we paint on it in black, it will darken the the Fuselage Paint layer immediately below. Now we do the same, creating a new layer named "Fuselage highlights", activating the mask feature and making the blending mode Screen or Lighten. On this layer we will add the highlights which will lighten off the colour on the Fuselage Paint layer.
Keep going, adding shading here and there until YOU are convinced of the shape you are seeing. If you think that it is "good enough", it probably isn't. You have those same human eyes as the viewer you are trying to convince. If you know something is not quite right, you can accept it or revise it. Ultimately, it is not going to be perfect anyway (just because nothing ever is, not because you can't draw!), so it is your call when close enough is good enough.
Here we have some shading applied to the fuselage layer set ...
Now we do the same thing to all the other bits we have painted so far. Then we get something like this ...
The higher the gloss on a surface, the brighter the highlight and the sharper its edges. Think of those wonderfully shot car ads with the crisp highlight running from end to end. The more matt a surface is, the softer and more diffused the highlight.
Here is a good example showing a glossy surface right next to a matt surface. Compare the highlights on the windscreen, nose and door...
So grab your soft, small brush, select white as your colour, drop you opacity to 4-5% and start on some highlights. Work carefully and slowly. Don't forget, because you are working on a separate layer, it is dead easy to delete what you have done and start again, so don't be afraid to experiment. If you want to create a really hard highlight, say for a canopy, you could even create a path to define its edges, make that a selection and then brush in the white till you are happy.
Remember this too, just like a perfect side on view doesn't occur in nature, neither does utter black or stark white. If I am painting something solid white, like lettering or markings, I usually use 10-15% grey. By the time shading is added it will often darker considerably again, but your eye tells you it is white. Likewise, I seldom go darker than 85% black, this also leaves space for some shading.
Here is our illustration with highlights applied ...
Now we have an illustration looking something like this ... We now have something that is looking quite realistic. It has colour, it has shape, it has form, it has texture.
But the Devil is in the details ...